Steve House and Vince Anderson: Gear for Nanga Parbat...
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Patagonia Alpine Ambassador Steve House goes through the gear he and partner Vince Anderson used on their alpine-style first ascent of the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat in September, 2005. They were awarded the 2005 Piolet d'Or Award, recognizing the significance of this innovative route climbed in a clean and committed style. Patagonia ambassador Steve House first laid eyes on the Rupal Face as a 19-year-old member of a Slovenian mountaineering expedition to the Schell Route, then considered the standard route to Nanga Parbat's summit. Since then he's been working to return and attempt the line up the central pillar of the Rupal Face. In 2004, Steve and partner, Bruce Miller, made that attempt,...
Comments
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can anyone share the video link of Nanga Parbat Rupal face ascent and summit made by House and Anderson?
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can anyone share the video link of Nanga Parbat Rupal face ascent and summit made by House and Anderson?
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I spoke with Steve House at the American Alpine Club meeting in NYC this winter he confirmed he uses Metolius ultralight power cams. Now I am curious what kind of lightweight wire gate biners he uses I would assume Camp photons as these are the lightest full size wiregates. In photos I have seen Steve seems to rack Grivel 360 screws. Tough to tell what stoppers they are ... look like an old school set of BDs
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I find it hard to believe those are the crampons he actually used on nanga - they are just general glacier walking crampons... i would have thot he used at least a G14
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So well thought out and so many great tips in such a short piece. Thanks to Steve and Patagonia.
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Good video. Not a fan of Patagonia products but a well done presentation.
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Very nice.kindly make one more video in detail of these gear use demonstaration
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Anyone know what cams those are ?
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Truly incredible the devotion to a minimalist approach, everything thought out to the nth detail. There are but a handful of people in the world who can venture into such hostile, technical terrain with so little gear, tag the 8000 meter summit and survive. A testament to preparation, climbing skill and hardiness.
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luke skywalker
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But apparently you are.
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dude get a haircut, you're not 10 years old anymore
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I would say any situation where you are risking falling forces onto a toothed unit is very dangerous. If the follower gets a bit ahead of himself (creating slack in the system) and then falls, it could be very easy to rip the sheath off the rope, if not sever the rope completely. Bad idea!
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This video was absolutely fascinating and extremely insightful. It demonstrates how much outdoor sports are really about a set of skills, and not special gear.
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Exactly. We're talking about a few metal pitons. They are pretty at home with in the big castle of minerals anyways. They aren't damaging the rock, the view or the wildlife. In terms of violations of "leave no trace", it ranks just above footprints.
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The style Steve climbs in is the purest (bar soloing) form of climbing there can be. Alpinism is the barest minimum of equipment and the fact that all he left was a few pieces on the rappels is testament to his love for climbing. If you want to talk shit to anyone, go and do it to the guys who pay 50k and leave trash all over Everest. That's a problem that merits criticsm, not this !
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not a NeoAir, it's a proLite 3 or 4, probably 3 love the Beatles haircut.
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@TheKimchiKilla yeah, him and Vince would both have had headlamps. Just finished reading his book "Beyond The Mountain" and that tent is luxury compared to some of the places they have bivvied before !
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He must have had a headlamp, no? That seems pretty crucial to me. That tent is insanely small!
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That's a good idea with the Tibloc for simul-climbing!
16m 56sLenght