Ice climbing Techniques - Ice screw placement, anchors and V-threads | Petzl Tech Tips
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This film demonstrates proper ice screw placement technique, as well as how to set an anchor and a v-thread in waterfall ice. We will discuss the key technical elements, but remember that when swinging your tools into the ice, it is crucial to understand the medium on which you are climbing. The quality of the ice, its structure, the terrain above, recent changes in temperature - all these factors and others must be considered before you step off the ground and onto the ice. More info http://www.petzl.com/LASER
Comments
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Does anyone know which jacket the guy in the 'Building a V thread' (from 4:15) section is wearing?!
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LOVE
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At 05m25s, tension seems to be distributed on both the V-thread and on the back up ice screw (if not, it is quite close, even if it seems to be ok because the climber is pulling the rope to the left...). The purpose of this is to confirm that the v-thread can hold 100% of the weight of a climber, but by having a back-up, just in case; if it held the 1st climber, then the 2nd climber can remove the back-up ice screw and do its descent. I agree that you want to avoid a shock if the v-thread fails by keeping a minimum "gap"...But I think that 2 inches could be a good compromise.
At 05m53s...is the climber is putting its life on just one ice screw? maybe he had put some stopping knot on the rope below him? but for sure, he is not holding the rope at all! That being said, standing on a very confortable ledge back-up on 1 ice screw is ok with me...but it is sure not recommanded.
what do you think guys?
Thank anyway petzl, i like all your videos! -
Clip a biner on another biner is not the optimal choice. In the rare but possible event of first biner fails, it will also take out the guy who clipped onto the second biner. Sorry to see Petzl did not take the safest practice under this circumstance.
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3 cams for a traditional anchor but only 2 ice screws in much less stable medium? seems counter intuitive to me. maybe a v thread + a screw, but just two screws? I don't even top rope off just two screws.
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This is insane!
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I lost count if the number of anchor points required for safety as a start. Seemed like a bunch of construction worker working on a facade than enjoying the climb at all. No thanks.
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Why the fuck would you climb ice ? For fun? V thread my ass what if that whole chunk of ice broke off
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Screws hold better at 100deg reduces the bend u get when at 90deg
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Petzl many thanks for these videos. Clear and instructive, right to the point. Keep making them.
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thanks that was very helpful
6m 57sLenght