How to layer for Alpine Climbing with Phil Ershler
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Phil Ershler from International Mountain Guides talks about how to layer for alpine climbing. Outdoor Research products are featured. Video Transcription: Hi, I'm Phil Ershler, one of the owners of International Mountain Guides. From the top of Mount Rainier to the top of Mount Everest, we take people on guided trips throughout the world. I'm here today to talk to you a little bit about clothing and about layering. Let's start at the bottom. I'm kind of a simple guy, and I like to keep things easy. We don't usually have a gear list with us when we're packing, and it's nice if we can stay organized, so to do that, I start at the bottom. I think in terms of a base layer for my legs, I think in terms of something like a long john. Synthetic, wool, or a blend of the two works well. It's a fabric that will allow the moisture to wick away from my body a bit and, at the same time, provide a reasonable amount of insulation, even when it's wet. So, one of the first things that goes into that pack for the legs, the long john bottoms. Then, I need a good climbing pant. I like a pant that's going to provide a little warmth, a little wind resistance, a little resistance to precipitation with a nice, durable hard finish. A pant like this, a light soft shell pant, works great and it serves that purpose really well. Into the pack. Then the next thing that kind of finishes off my legs for me is a nice hard shell pant. Gortex works well, good wind protection, good water resistance, and Gortex is a great choice. One of the features I look for in a hard shell pant is a full length leg zipper because I want to be able to put this pant on when it's 2:00 in the morning and I'm on that alpine start, and the wind's blowing like crazy, and it's snowing, and it's cold, and I need a little more protection on my legs. Now, at this point, I've already got those spikes on. So, think in terms of that full length leg zipper. Here's the tech tip for the day. Where do you have those zippers when you put on your pants? I like both of the zippers brought to the peak of my hip, to that apex of that hip. If I do that, that allows me to stick a crampon boot right through that hole at the hip. If this is the way I need the pant when I put them on, by golly, this is the way I pack the pant in my pack. So, both of those zippers together, up at the point of the hip, and that's the way it goes on when I need it, and that's the way it goes in my pack... On the upper body, boy, you know, it's basically the same thing. I'm thinking in terms of a wicking base layer, and I'm a big fan of zip turtlenecks. You know, you think about it, gets a little bit too warm for you, boom, the zipper comes down. It's a little too warm still, all the sudden that long sleeve zip turtle neck becomes a short sleeve zip turtleneck. This is one of those places where I like two. It allows me. . . I can layer both of them, and also, if I get really wet with one during the day, and I'm a little bit too cold to wear it dry, I'll just slip on the other. So, two of those are going into my pack. Now, I'm looking for a little bit more insulation on the upper body. I'm a big fan of a nice soft shell jacket. We're also, particularly as guides, real fans of hoods. I need a hood that will go on over my hard hat. A soft shell, like this, is going to provide a nice bit of insulation in addition to the long johns that I'm already wearing, and it's going to provide a lot of wind protection, and water protection also. So that soft shell jacket goes in as my next layer. Now, I try real hard not to be redundant on any of my clothing items, but a nice light wind shirt is a piece that I really enjoy in addition to my hard shell jacket. So, you'll often see me with a wind shirt in my pack also. Now we talked about that hard shell. Hey, especially for those of us in the Northwest, know that when it's blowing hard and it's pretty cold and it's snowing, we want a nice Gortex jacket. Again, we're looking for a hood that's going to go over that hard hat easily. We don't need a lot of weight. We need a nice, light, functional piece. Let's top it off with a puffy jacket. You know when it's really cold outside, I like another piece that I can layer on top of my long johns, my soft shell, my Gortex. That's my puffy jacket. For a lot of climbs in the Northwest, a synthetic jacket like this works very well. It provides that warmth that's needed in addition to those other pieces when I'm standing around, or at a belay station, or just on a really cold climb... The important thing now is to just get out there and go for it. If you have any additional questions, feel free to contact Outdoor Research at OutdoorResearch.com, or give us a shout, InternationalMountainGuides at MountainGuides.com
Comments
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When you have the body base laser on, and then your soft/hadshell. When it gets colder, do you pull the puffy jacket over the soft/hardshell or remove it and wear the puffy jacket over the baselayer?
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Thanks, this was a really easy to understand system.
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+icychap you would wear a down jacket over a hardshell as down loses lots of its insulating properties when compressed which is why down is always your outermost layer
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what kind of hard shell pants are those??
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Great tip of the day... Love it i would have still been searching
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cant mess around with down here either; gotta be all synthetic. weather its a temperature swing from 36 degrees down to -30 at night or ice from your own breath that melts onto the jacket then freezes and soaks through half wet.....
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here in new england, it may not even be winter, only fall or spring and you cant put a shell under a puffy because it would loose all its heat out in a light wind even. and we carry TWO puffies, over 3 diffrerent fleeces and one baselayer. base, 100weight,fleece vest,fleece jacket, puffy jacket or vest and puffy jacket, then shell, and at 40 below with 45 mph winds that wont even do much if your not holes up in a sleeping bag or moving on the go, thats with base legs,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, one or two light fleece layers and one puffy pant under a shell.......a whole different world here. I'd love that balmy colorado stuff, but I actually like to hike between -15 and 9 degrees most when its low humidity. You can even dry stuff in the strong mid day sun no problem when its that cold. 10f can be a real nice temperature too. its like that magic number when the snow starts squeeking.
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well after seeing his take on gear and what similar people are climbing with I can sure see why its so hard to get gear for people who actually backpack or climb in much colder weather. And softshells just trap water in so it cant dry out, from snow, spindrift, or even moisture off rocks or tree branches.....totally useless for me. goodluck getting caught out in a cold storm with only that crap on your legs!! I get a kick out of these climbers who put insulation on over a shell too, a great way to soak your insulation, but i guess its Ok if your running back down and retreating all the time to go get drunk again.....doesnt fly for a 7 day backpacking tip though in 40 below weather
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Thank you, that was really helpful! So I just need a larger pair of insulated pants to put over everything.
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You could have thicker fleece over your base layer but generally if you need extra warmth you would put a pair of insulated pants over everything. It is generally a better idea to have a base layer and then use either shell or soft shell over that. Then if you get cold you can put on a pair of insulated pants. It is much harder to put on and take off fleece layers. Just like how you wear big insulated jacket over everything when you get cold, not under it. Hope that helps!
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I don't quite get the bottom layering system. Don't I need a fleece pants on top of my baselayer?
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I have to agree with Barton, i have a full alpine layering system and I have never paid full price for anything big. Just bought a $350 hard shell jacket for $175! and i am the opposite of rich lol
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i just got a patagonia northwall jacket for 220 that goes for 450 retail. and it was on sale directly from patagonia in the week long half off sale they do every year!
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clearance rack....sales.....buy stuff in the spring and summer time. Surf online for items you want and find the cheapest stores around. It does take some money to layer up like that but like i said sales and clearance during spring and summer will get you saving money like you wouldn't believe.
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man i wish i was rich :(
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i know he doesn't really do it that way but he just put everything in his pack back wards.lol p-a-a-a-a-a-n-t
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2:24 - Pack the paaaaaaannnnt. LOL.
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Can't stop rewinding. "...this is the way I pack the p-a-a-a-n-t...this is the way I pack the p-a-a-a-n-t...pack the pa-a-a-n-t...pack the p-a-a-a-n-t..."
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All nice nice nice nice nice.
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@icychap With this layering system, your puffy is your warmest and outermost layer. If you are wearing your mid layers and your shell and are still cold in an alpine environment, it is probable that the outside temperature is below freezing. Which is that case, the precipitation may be in the form of snow. The loft jackets are all water resistant and resist a lot of frozen precip. In a case where it is just nasty wet outside, you may want to rearrange your layers to match the weather conditions.
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