Alpine Anchors

Mountain | reviews | videos | photos

Author: SIET, School for International Expedition Training

77094View

14m 44sLenght

To see more free educational content from SIET, visit out website: http://expeditiontraining.org/tech-tip-videos This video was reviewed by 2 or more AMGA/IFMGA Certified Guides and/or SIET Instructors and produced by industry professionals. However, this video may contain misinformation, may lack important details, may assume a certain knowledge base by the viewer, and is not intended for novices. SIET and it's employees and affiliates, recommend professional training for anyone taking part in mountaineering/climbing/skiing activities and attempting to implement skills demonstrated in these videos. Videos produced by SIET should not be used as a substitute for professional instruction! http://expeditiontraining.org/

Comments

Nice and interesting video. Well done! Some of these techniques are compatibles with canyoning techniques.

Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Great job.

I liked the different point of view. One thing, shock loading and dynema. Sling,+magic X+1 piece fails under a Factor 2 fall...that sling is cutting itself resulting in catostopic factor...after watching DMM's testing of shock loading on slings it's seems it's a 100% failure rate

Interesting & modern but did not explain "shelf". Is that a loop to hang gear on?

I was taught in alpine school not to use dyneema for anchor building but nylon, and to use at least one screw-lock biner. Also all the anchors shown apply to movable "questionable" protection (nuts, cams, pitons, sometimes ice screws) to distribute the load. When making anchors on solid "bombproof" bolts, it should be consecutively. All of the load on one anchor point, as the other anchor point serves as a backup if the first fails. Also the "magic X" shouldn't be used due to great shock loading forces, that may cause catastrophic failure. Just my 2 cents.

why did he clip into the ring @ 3:16. clip into the bolt, don't do what he did!

If timely belay rigging is what you're after, I don't see how anything is faster than a pre-rigged quad. Is there some reason you wouldn't want to pre-rig a quad?

Thank You! for the anchor tips.

Nerd alert: Why is 90 degrees the limit for the anchor? high school physics tells me that the force on each piece is Weight/2/cos(angle/2). so, for an angle of 120 degrees, the weight on each piece is weight/2/cos(60 deg) = weight /2 /.5 = weight. With the 120 angle setup, each piece is only holding a force equivalent to the original load, and the system is more redundant. Isn't that good? As the angle goes to 180 the load on each piece obviously goes to infinity, but it seems like 120 is the break even, not 90 degrees.

I don't like the sliding x because there's no redundancy in your sling

Great video

Why not just build an anchor system using the dynamic rope your climbing with?, through two carabiners clipped into bolts and clove hitches at the harness end so you can set the length.

Hi, what do you mean by shelf not user-friendly ?

This is an excellent video that covers all the core functions in a concise manner. Well some folks might disagree with a few minor points, overall it's solid. Note that this only covers making two-piece anchors, not three-piece or more.

you miss the one I was taught in the German Alpine association... but I can't describe it here in English.

The sliding/magic X doesn't pass your own redundancy requirements

Magic X, Sliding X, The Swamp... all these made-up names will make impossibile to communicate efficiently with an alpinist that was trained in a different location.

I really don't like the knot on Dyneema sling. I never do that. Check the videos about dyneema slings under dynamic load. Bad idea!

Great video, really clear and simple.

Nice review of anchor fundamentals